Root Causes for Pleat at Sewing Line in Garments Industry
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| Root Causes for Pleat Formation in the Sewing Line — Exploring the Factors Behind Unwanted Folds and Wrinkles in Garment Seams. |
Description:
Pleat defects in the sewing line occur when unintended folds or wrinkles form along the seam during stitching. This problem not only affects the garment’s appearance but can also distort the overall fit and shape. Common root causes include improper fabric feeding, uneven tension between layers, poor handling techniques by operators, and incorrect machine settings such as differential feed or presser foot pressure. Other contributing factors include mismatched fabric panels, excessive thread tension, and lack of proper guiding aids. To prevent pleat formation, operators should be trained in correct fabric handling, machines must be properly adjusted and maintained, and in-line QC should continuously monitor seam smoothness and alignment.1. Operator-Related Causes
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Improper fabric handling — feeding fabric unevenly or twisting during sewing.
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Excessive pulling or pushing of fabric while stitching.
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Failure to keep fabric layers flat and aligned under the presser foot.
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Lack of attention when sewing curved or long seams.
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Insufficient skill in handling delicate or stretchable fabrics.
Action Plan:
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Conduct operator training on proper fabric feeding techniques.
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Emphasize two-hand fabric control during sewing.
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Ensure operators maintain correct sewing posture and rhythm.
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Introduce visual examples of pleat defects in quality awareness sessions.
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Perform initial 10-piece quality checks for new operators/styles.
2. Machine-Related Causes
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Uneven feed mechanism (difference between top and bottom feed).
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Incorrect presser foot pressure — too high or too low.
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Feed dog or needle plate wear/damage causing fabric drag.
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Improper needle size or blunt needle creating drag or puckering.
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Machine speed too high for fabric type and seam length.
Action Plan:
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Calibrate feed mechanism (especially differential feed on overlock).
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Adjust presser foot pressure according to fabric thickness.
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Replace worn feed dogs, throat plates, and needles regularly.
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Optimize machine speed per operation and fabric type.
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Schedule daily mechanical checks before production start.
3. Fabric-Related Causes
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Fabric slippage due to smooth or slippery texture (e.g., satin, nylon).
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Excessive fabric thickness leading to uneven feeding.
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Fabric tension variation between layers.
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Shrinkage or distortion due to poor fabric relaxation.
Action Plan:
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Allow fabric relaxation for 24 hours before cutting and sewing.
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Use anti-slip table mats or guides for slippery fabrics.
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Apply proper fabric layering techniques before sewing.
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Test fabric behavior before production (sample sewing test).
4. Work-Aid and Method-Related Causes
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No use of fabric guides or seam folders.
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Improper workstation height or layout causing poor fabric control.
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No standard sewing method followed among operators.
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Using wrong seam allowance markers or ignoring them.
Action Plan:
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Provide seam guides, folders, and edge controllers where needed.
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Ensure workstations are ergonomically adjusted for operator comfort.
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Develop SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) for each seam type.
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Conduct method study to standardize handling across operators.
5. Supervision and Quality Control Causes
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Lack of in-line inspection at early stages.
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No defect feedback loop between QC and operator.
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Ignoring small pleats that later affect garment fit.
Action Plan:
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Introduce in-line quality checks after each key operation.
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Set up real-time defect tracking boards (visual management).
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Conduct joint review between QC, IE, and production teams daily.
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Reward operators with zero pleat defects to motivate accuracy.
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