Root Causes for Open Stitch at Sewing Line in Garments Industry
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| Root Causes for Open Stitch in the Sewing Line — Understanding Why Stitches Miss or Break and How to Prevent Seam Gaps in Garment Production. |
Description:
Open stitch is a frequent defect in the garments sewing line that occurs when the stitching fails to cover the seam completely, leaving visible gaps or unstitched areas. This issue affects both the strength and appearance of the garment. Common root causes include improper thread tension, needle or thread breakage, operator negligence, skipped stitches due to incorrect machine settings, and poor fabric handling. Inconsistent seam allowances or inaccurate alignment of fabric parts can also contribute to open stitch defects. Preventive measures such as regular machine maintenance, operator training, proper tension setup, and in-line quality checks are essential to minimize open stitches and ensure consistent seam quality in production.1.
Operator-Related Causes
- Operator fails to overlap starting and ending stitches
properly.
- Inaccurate fabric guiding or misalignment between
panels.
- Fabric slipping away from the stitch line during
sewing.
- Poor handling or pulling fabric while sewing.
- Lack of attention or skill in joining seams correctly.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Train operators on correct seam start and end overlap
(2–3 stitches).
- Ensure operators guide fabric along the seam guide
line.
- Monitor operators frequently during production.
- Reduce machine speed for critical seam areas.
2. Machine-Related Causes
- Incorrect thread tension (too loose on top or bottom).
- Improper feed dog height or timing causing uneven
feeding.
- Needle skipping due to bent or blunt needle.
- Bobbin case tension or hook timing issues.
- Presser foot pressure too low, causing fabric movement.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Check and adjust thread tension regularly.
- Maintain proper needle, hook, and feed timing.
- Replace damaged needles and ensure correct size
selection.
- Adjust presser foot pressure according to fabric type.
- Calibrate machine before production starts.
3. Thread-Related Causes
- Poor-quality or uneven thread thickness.
- Incompatible thread size with needle or fabric.
- Thread breakage or skipped stitch due to excessive
tension.
- Incorrect threading path or damaged thread guides.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Use approved, tested thread for production.
- Match thread count and needle size properly.
- Ensure correct threading and smooth thread flow.
- Conduct daily thread path inspection.
4. Fabric-Related Causes
- Slippery or stretchy fabric leading to seam slippage.
- Fabric thickness variation or uneven layers.
- Fabric shrinkage after pressing or washing that exposes
the seam.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Use seam guide or differential feed for stretchy or
slippery fabrics.
- Maintain uniform fabric feeding.
- Pre-shrink or relax fabric before cutting.
5. Work Aids &
Attachment-Related Causes
- Wrong folder, guide, or jig alignment.
- Worn-out or loose attachments that don’t hold fabric
correctly.
- Missing seam guide during operation.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Set and calibrate folders and guides before production.
- Replace worn or damaged attachments immediately.
- Use edge guide to maintain uniform seam line.
6. Process & Line-Management
Causes
- No standard overlap procedure defined for each seam.
- Lack of in-line checking for seam integrity.
- High production pressure reducing operator focus.
- Poor communication between QA and sewing line
supervisors.
đ Preventive Actions:
- Establish clear SOP for seam start and end overlap.
- Implement in-line QC checkpoints for open seam control.
- Maintain balanced production speed.
- Strengthen feedback loop between sewing and QA teams.
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