Planning of Apparel Pattern Making

Bridging Design and Production: Systematic Planning for Accurate, Efficient, and High-Quality Garment Patterns.

1. Introduction

Pattern making is one of the most critical stages in apparel production planning. It transforms a designer’s sketch or concept into a technical blueprint that guides fabric cutting and garment construction. Proper planning ensures accuracy, fit consistency, material optimization, and cost efficiency.

Planning of Apparel Pattern Making – Introduction

Apparel pattern making is a foundational process in garment production, serving as the critical bridge between design and manufacturing. This stage involves all essential activities, including pattern design, grading, and marker preparation, along with determining material requirements.

Effective planning in pattern making ensures dimensional accuracy, optimal fabric utilization, and consistency in garment fit and quality. By integrating precise pattern development with efficient layout planning, manufacturers can reduce production costs, minimize fabric waste, and achieve a high-quality finished product that meets both design intent and customer expectations.

Constructing Apparel Pattern

Constructing an apparel pattern is a complex and technical process carried out for specific types of garments based on a variety of measurements and standards. This process takes into account the following key elements:

• Additional measurements

• Back and chest widths

• Body measurements

• Body proportions

• Construction measurements

• Garment sizing systems and size designations

• Main body measurements

• Pictograms and technical illustrations

A pattern serves as a diagrammatic representation of how each garment part is designed and constructed. It provides the working plan for manufacturing the garment accurately and efficiently.

Since garments are generally composed of basic fabric, lining, and interlining, a pattern is first created for the basic fabric. This primary pattern then becomes the foundation for developing the patterns for the lining and interlining components.

When constructing lining patterns, it is essential to include ease—the extra allowance that ensures comfort and flexibility. The lining should not distort the outer fabric or cause wrinkles. Depending on the stretch, thickness, or drape of the main fabric, the amount of ease may need to be adjusted to maintain proper garment shape and appearance.

Industrial Pattern Making

Industrial pattern making involves two fundamental stages:

1. The Block Pattern

The block pattern (also known as the basic pattern or sloper) serves as the foundation for all garment designs. It can be created using two primary methods:

• a) Flat Method: Constructed on paper using standard measurements and drafting techniques.

• b) Modeling (Draping) Method: Developed directly on a dress form or mannequin by shaping fabric according to body contours.

2. The Apparel Pattern

Once the block pattern is developed, it is modified into an apparel pattern that reflects the final garment design, style lines, and construction details.

Methods of Apparel Pattern Construction

Apparel pattern construction can be carried out in two main ways:

1. Manual (Conventional) Method

2. Computer-Aided Design (CAD) Method

Manual or Conventional Method

In the conventional process, the construction, modeling, and modification of garment pattern pieces are done manually using drafting tools. Grading—the process of proportionally increasing or decreasing pattern sizes—can also be performed manually or through mechanical grading tools.

Computer-Aided Design (CAD) Method

Modern apparel industries widely use CAD systems (such as Gerber, Lectra, Optitex, or Tukatech) for efficient pattern construction. CAD enables:

• Digital drafting and modification of patterns

• Automatic or semi-automatic grading for multiple sizes

• Improved precision and time efficiency

When constructing garment patterns using CAD, the following steps are essential:

1. Systemize the pattern pieces and models – ensure all components are digitally organized and labeled.

2. Prepare the pattern pieces – clean, align, and check each piece for accuracy.

3. Determine the type of material – specify fabric type, stretch, thickness, and behavior.

4. Define the cutting marker parameters – optimize fabric layout to minimize wastage during cutting.

Industrial pattern making combines artistic design principles with technical precision. Whether executed manually or through computer-aided systems, efficient pattern development ensures consistency, productivity, and accuracy throughout the garment manufacturing process.

Instructions for Apparel Pattern Making

To ensure that a garment is constructed accurately and efficiently, specific instructions and markings must be clearly indicated on every apparel pattern. These markings guide cutters, sewers, and production personnel during the manufacturing process.

The following are the key instructions that should be marked on each pattern piece:

1. Balance Mark

• Used to ensure that pattern pieces are sewn together at the correct points.

• Helps maintain alignment between corresponding sections such as sleeves and armholes, side seams, and collars.

2. Construction Lines

• Indicate important sewing and placement details, including:

  • Buttonholes

  • Pocket positions

  • Pleats, darts, and tucks

  • Zipper placements

• These lines guide operators during garment assembly.

3. Grain Line

• Every pattern piece must include a grain line arrow.

• It indicates the lengthwise direction of the fabric (warp direction).

• During marker making, all pattern pieces must be placed parallel to the grain line to ensure correct drape, fit, and fabric behavior after sewing.

4. Name of the Part

• Each pattern piece should be clearly labeled (e.g., Front Bodice, Back Bodice, Sleeve, Collar, Pocket Flap).

• This helps identify each section quickly during cutting and sewing.

5. Size

• The pattern must indicate the size designation (e.g., S, M, L, or numerical sizes like 38, 40, 42).

• It also helps users locate their size when comparing finished garment measurements or grading variations.

6. Style Number

• Every pattern should include the style number or code corresponding to the design or order.

• It helps in record keeping, pattern tracking, and production control for different styles in the same factory.

Properly marking apparel patterns ensures accuracy in assembly, consistency in production, and clarity for sewing operators. These markings form the technical communication link between the pattern room and the sewing floor — reducing errors and improving garment quality.

Pattern Pieces and Their Preparation

A pattern-piece can be defined as a component of a garment pattern that is constructed based on technological and constructional requirements. In practical terms, it refers to an individual template or part of a garment that will be cut from fabric, leather, fur, or other materials during production.

Each pattern-piece serves as a blueprint for a specific garment section — such as the front bodice, sleeve, collar, or cuff — and must include all necessary information to ensure accurate cutting, assembly, and quality control.

Essential Information on a Pattern-Piece

Every pattern-piece should contain the following details:

1. Designation (Code): A unique alphanumeric code that identifies the pattern-piece within the design or model.

2. Size Designation: Indicates the size of the garment for which the pattern-piece is intended (e.g., S, M, L or numeric sizes like 38, 40, 42).

3. Position Marks: Marks showing the locations of darts, folds, pleats, pockets, and control notches or incisions to assist accurate assembly.

4. Yarn or Grain Direction: Indicates the warp direction (for woven fabrics) or loop column direction (for knitted fabrics). This ensures proper drape, stretch, and fit.

5. Fabric Type Indicator: Specifies the type of fabric or material (e.g., basic fabric, lining, interlining, leather, fur) to be used for that specific piece.

6. Grading Table Reference: Points to the grading system or size range used for scaling the pattern.

7. Model Name and Identification Code: Provides the model’s name or code and an identification number to link the pattern-piece with the corresponding garment style.

Pattern-Piece Designation System

In industrial practice, the pattern-piece designation is often composed to include all necessary identifiers in a compact code format.

Typically, a nine-digit code is used, structured as follows:

• First six digits: Represent the model number.

• Last three digits: Represent the specific pattern-piece of that model.

This ensures precise tracking and organization of all pattern components within a production system.

Proper preparation and coding of pattern-pieces are critical for efficient production planning, accurate pattern tracking, and error-free garment assembly. A systematic approach to labeling and organizing pattern-pieces ensures seamless communication between the design, pattern room, and production floor, ultimately improving manufacturing quality and speed.

1. Adding Seam and Hem Allowances

A seam allowance is the distance between the seam line and the cut edge of a pattern-piece. It is an essential component in garment construction, providing the necessary fabric margin for stitching and assembly.

The seam allowance should be determined individually for each pattern-piece, depending on:

• The garment model

• The fabric type

• The seam type and position

• The production method

Although the specific measurements can vary between enterprises, seam allowances must be standardized within each production system to ensure consistency and accuracy.

Standard Seam Allowance Measurements

• General Standard: 10 mm (1 cm)

• Range: 7.5 mm to 15 mm, depending on seam location and garment type

• High-Quality Garments: Jackets or tailored pieces may have 15 mm allowances on back and side seams to allow for fitting adjustments

• Intricate Seams (e.g., welt seams): Allowance varies according to design and finishing requirements

Hem Allowances

Hem allowances differ based on the garment part and fabric weight.
For example:

• Coat body and sleeve hems: Approximately 40 mm

• Lightweight garments: Typically 20–30 mm
  Hem allowances provide extra length for folding, finishing, and achieving the desired drape and balance.

2. Preparation of Pattern-Pieces for Digitizing and Grading

In modern apparel production, pattern-pieces must be converted into digital form to enable computerized grading, marker planning, and automated cutting. Since garment pattern-pieces are composed of complex geometric shapes, they need to be processed and systematized before being stored in computer memory.

Key Steps in Preparation

The preparation process involves a series of actions to ensure accuracy and digital compatibility. This includes both technical definition and data organization for efficient computer processing.

A. Data Systematization

Before digitizing, the following data must be clearly defined and organized into a centralized pattern database:

• Basic pattern-pieces

• Grading rules

• Garment models

• Cutting markers

This ensures all necessary parameters are accessible for computerized grading and marker making.

B. Pattern-Piece Preparation Steps

The process of preparing pattern-pieces for digitizing includes:

1. Defining Pattern-Piece Contours: Each pattern-piece contour is composed of a series of connected lines and points. Each line segment begins and ends at a main point.

2. Decomposing Pattern-Piece Contours: The contours are broken into smaller segments for digital processing.

3. Determining Segment Types: Straight segments: Defined by their starting and ending main points. Curved segments: Defined by start and end points, plus auxiliary (control) points that shape the curve.

4. Determining Auxiliary Points: Auxiliary points are added to improve the accuracy of curved areas and transitions.

5. Defining Border Garment Sizes: Identify the range of garment sizes (smallest to largest) for which grading will be performed.

6. Defining Intermediate Sizes: Specify the size intervals and grading increments within the defined borders.

7. Designating Main and Auxiliary Points: Assign main and auxiliary points on the contour and internal features (e.g., darts, pleats, pockets).

8. Determining Types and Movement (TIPs and CODs):

   • TIP (Type of Point): Defines functional meaning — such as grain direction, dart tip, pocket placement, or fold line.

   • COD (Coordinate of Deviation): Specifies how each point moves or shifts during grading to form different sizes.

   • These parameters determine how the pattern scales from the base size to larger or smaller sizes.

C. Importance of Preparation

Accurate preparation and digitization of pattern-pieces ensure:

• Precise grading across all sizes

• Efficient marker planning

• Seamless integration with CAD/CAM systems

• Reduced fabric waste and production errors

This digital approach enhances the speed, consistency, and scalability of garment manufacturing.

Adding correct seam and hem allowances, followed by systematic preparation of pattern-pieces for digitizing and grading, forms a critical foundation for industrial apparel production. Properly defined digital data ensures high-quality, scalable, and efficient garment construction while maintaining the designer’s intended fit and style.

Digitizing of Pattern-Pieces

Digitizing is the process of converting manual (paper) patterns into digital form for use in computer-aided design (CAD) systems. This transformation allows pattern data to be edited, graded, stored, and used for marker making and automated cutting.

Pattern-pieces are digitized using a digitizer, which physically converts the geometrical shapes of the pattern into a series of numerical coordinates suitable for computerized processing.

Process of Digitizing Pattern-Pieces

1. Mounting the Pattern-Piece:
   The paper pattern is attached securely to the digitizing tablet to prevent movement during the process.

2. Recording the Contour Points:
   Using a cursor or stylus, the operator marks each key point along the pattern’s contour—including corners, curves, notches, and internal features such as darts or pleats.

   • The operator typically records the points in a clockwise direction around the perimeter of the pattern-piece.

   • Each point is registered as a set of X and Y coordinates in the computer system.

3. Data Transfer to the Computer:
   The digitizer is connected to a microcomputer that receives and stores the coordinate data in real time.

   • The computer converts the recorded points into a digital outline of the pattern-piece.

   • This data is then formatted for further editing, grading, and marker planning within the CAD software.

Purpose and Advantages of Digitizing

Digitizing ensures that traditional paper patterns are accurately reproduced and integrated into digital systems, enabling:

• High precision in pattern editing and scaling

• Efficient data storage and retrieval

• Reduced physical handling errors

• Faster integration with automated cutting systems

• Improved collaboration between pattern makers, designers, and production units

Digitizing is a crucial link between manual pattern creation and modern computer-aided garment production. By converting physical templates into digital data, manufacturers achieve greater accuracy, consistency, and production efficiency.

Methods of Digitizing Pattern-Pieces

Digitizing can be performed in several ways depending on how the grading data (size variation information) is handled during or after the digitizing process. The three most commonly used methods in apparel CAD systems are as follows:

A. Digitizing on a Prepared Grid of Basic Size Pattern-Pieces

In this method, digitizing is carried out on a previously prepared grid representing the basic size pattern-pieces.

• The largest and smallest sizes are also indicated on the grid for reference.

• During digitizing, the coordinates of all main and auxiliary points on the contour are recorded.

• The grading values (used to scale the pattern to other sizes) are then stored separately in the computer.

This method focuses primarily on capturing the geometric data of the basic size while keeping grading information as an independent dataset.

B. Digitizing with Simultaneous Formation of a Grading Database

In this more advanced method, digitizing is performed directly from the prepared contour grid, but with grading information created and stored simultaneously.

• As each point is digitized, the grading data are automatically defined and linked to that specific point.

• This approach builds a grading database in real time, which contains all necessary information for automatic size scaling and pattern grading.

It improves workflow efficiency by combining digitizing and grading setup in one operation.

C. Digitizing Based on Memorized Grading Rule Values

In this method, only the basic size pattern is digitized.

• The grading rules and value sets (previously defined and stored in the CAD system) are then applied automatically to the digitized pattern.

• The computer references these memorized grading rule values to generate the complete size range.

This is a highly efficient and standardized method, particularly suitable for large-scale production where consistent grading rules are applied across multiple garment models.

Grading of Pattern-Pieces

Once the digitizing and control (verification) processes are completed, the pattern-pieces are ready for grading. Grading is carried out using a set of predefined grade rules (also known as grading rules), which specify how the pattern should expand or contract across different garment sizes.

Definition of Grading

Grading refers to the systematic, stepwise increase or decrease of the dimensions of a master pattern-piece to create the full size range of a garment.

• The master pattern (also known as the base size or basic pattern) serves as the reference for all other sizes.

• Through grading, proportional adjustments are applied to ensure that each new size maintains the same fit, balance, and design features as the original.

Process of Grading

During grading:

1. Each main point on the pattern contour is assigned a specific direction and value of movement (shift).

2. These grading values define how far and in which direction the point moves to create the next size up or down.

3. The system automatically adjusts auxiliary and internal points (such as darts, pleats, and notches) to maintain shape and proportion.

These movements are determined according to the grade rules established during the digitizing setup.

Completion and Storage

After:

• The digitizing process is completed,

• All necessary modifications and control checks have been performed, and

• The grading rules are properly stored in the CAD system,

…the digitized and graded pattern-pieces are then saved in the pattern database. These stored digital files can later be used for:

• Marker making,

• Pattern editing,

• Production planning, and

• Automated cutting operations.